All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 pdf 下載 txt下載 epub 下載 mobi 下載 2024


All for a Few Perfect Waves

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Rensin, David 作者
譯者
2008-4 出版日期
475 頁數
$ 29.32 價格
叢書系列
9780060773311 圖書編碼

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發表於2024-11-23

All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 epub 下載 mobi 下載 pdf 下載 txt 下載 2024

All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 epub 下載 pdf 下載 mobi 下載 txt 下載 2024

All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 pdf 下載 txt下載 epub 下載 mobi 下載 2024



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All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 pdf 下載 txt下載 epub 下載 mobi 在線電子書下載

All for a Few Perfect Waves 在線電子書 圖書描述

There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a rebel trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever more commodified, Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves - and anonymity - beyond America. He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a seven-year chase around the globe. After his arrest and imprisonment, he would return to America once in a while, but never again to live, and in the end only to die.Dora would never give up searching for the spirit of the Malibu he'd lost. Wherever he made his home - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the rebel heart of surfing and became a legend in his own time. This brilliant biography, based on interviews with more than three hundred people who knew Dora, finally uncovers the truth about surfing's most seductive and complicated icon. It is the story of one man's insistence on personal freedom - and the rewards and the costs that brings. It is also a story of innocence lost, of the growth and commercialization of the California lifestyle. Loner. Rebel. Wanderer. Legend. The life of Miki Dora is the greatest surf story never told.

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