merits~ating and all the writing, I have notnd there are a number of people who3. First, there is my husband, Richardyalest of eaters, even when he would~owl of pasta in front of the televisionLnother Green Beret among eaters. Butlers, good and loyal friends who wentrants I chose and ordered the food I3eve and beyond the call of friendship.Monika Pichler, who typed this man-put of my errors and scrawled correc-editor, has my gratitude for her carefulfor her patience. Patience is also what-huster exercised as I missed one dead-I hope all feel the effort was worth it,~r-ending ben app6tit.Introduction"What is your favorite New York restaurant?" Not too surpris-ingly, that is the question I am most often asked. It is also oneI find difficult to answer, because a single restaurant name isexpected, and I find it almost impossible to make that choice."Favorite restaurant for what?" is all I can counter with. Forthough I think the food prepared by Andr6 Soltner and hisstaff at Lut~ce makes his the best French restaurant in the city,and I feel that French food is the world's best, there are manyinstances when Lut~ce would not be my first choice for dinner. Being a restaurant buff and living in New York, I favor dif-ferent eating places for different moods, dishes, styles and evenprices. If I feel like eating linguine with white clam sauce, ora lusty, fragrant pizza, or a red-hot Korean fish soup, or do notwant to get dressed up or spend $100 a person for dinner, noneof Andr6 Soltner's delectables will suffice. And so this book is a collection of personal favorites invarious categories. That the number totals 154 is a tribute toNew York's culinary diversity and my own reluctance to ex-clude any place I really like, if only for a single dish. This bookis, in fact, a strategy for eating in New York, knowing whereto eat what, in which neighborhood and at what price. To makecomparisons easy for the reader, I have grouped restaurants bythe type of food they serve--American, French, steak and soon. That way it is easy to tell, for example, the basic differencesbetween Lut~ce, La Grenouille, Le Cygne and Le Cirque. Allare top French restaurants, but they provide quite differentdining experiences. If I were entertaining someone who lovedglamorous, gorgeous settings, I would choose La Grenouille orLe Cygne. If it were someone who wanted to dine midst a madsocial whirl, it would be Le Cirque. And if it were someonewho preferred simple, countrified settings in which to appre- ciate magnificent food, it would be Lut~ce. Although some might expect that a book of best and favorite restaurants will include only those that are French, Italian and perhaps Chinese and Japanese, this collection ranges over a much wider variety because I find almost all cuisines enticing, and I would rather have a first-rate Korean meal than a third- rate French alternative. That is why, for example, the Tibetan Kitchen is in this book and La C6te Basque is not. The Tibetan Kitchen does what it promises to do better than La C6te Basque does, especially when one considers the telephone rudeness of the latter toward unknowns making reservations. Not every7
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从文笔上看,这本书的叙事风格极其老练,带着一种老派优雅的腔调,但又丝毫不让人觉得老气横秋。Mimi Sheraton 的文字如同她推荐的菜肴一样,层次丰富,回味悠长。她善于用一种近乎文学性的笔触来描述食物的质地和味道的平衡感,读起来简直是一种享受。很多美食评论家只是堆砌形容词,但她不一样,她会用非常精确的对比和联想,让你在脑海中勾勒出那份食物的完美形态。比如她描述一份经典法式甜点的酥皮如何“在舌尖上碎裂,释放出黄油与焦糖的叹息”,这种描述力,足以让人放下手中的工作,立刻开始计划下一趟美食之旅。她对“经典”的定义,不是守旧,而是对卓越品质的坚守,这在快节奏的纽约餐饮界,显得尤为珍贵和难能可贵。
评分这本书简直是美食探索者的福音,尤其是对于那些把纽约视为精神家园的饕客来说。我得说,Mimi Sheraton 的眼光之独到,简直让人佩服得五体投地。她推荐的那些地方,绝不是那种只会靠华丽装修和社交媒体炒作来吸引眼球的网红店。恰恰相反,她挖掘的是那些深藏在街头巷尾,真正用心去做菜的“老灵魂”餐馆。每一次翻开这本书,都像是一次私密的城市漫步,她不仅仅告诉你“去哪里吃”,更重要的是,她会用一种非常生动的笔触,描绘出这家店的历史、老板的故事,以及为什么这道菜值得你专程跑过去排队。比如她描绘某家意大利小馆老板对橄榄油选择的执着,那种细节的把握,让你在真正走进那家店之前,就已经闻到了罗勒和番茄酱的香气。这本书读起来,完全不是那种枯燥的指南手册,而是一部充满人情味的纽约餐饮史诗,它教会了我如何用舌尖去感受这座城市的脉搏和变迁。
评分我必须承认,这本书最打动我的地方,在于它所蕴含的“人文关怀”。这不是一本仅仅关于“吃什么”的书,它更像是一份对纽约这座城市精神的致敬。Mimi Sheraton 似乎在用她的文字,为那些默默坚守传统、拒绝随波逐流的小店主们立传。她会花大篇幅去记录一位老厨师在后厨几十年如一日的辛劳,或者某家家族经营的披萨店如何抵抗连锁品牌的冲击。读到这些故事,你对食物的感激之情会油然而生,你不再只是一个消费者,而是一个见证者和支持者。每一次光顾她推荐的店,我都感觉自己肩负着一份责任,去维护这份纽约特有的、尚未被过度商业化的美食记忆。这本书,是一份沉甸甸的文化遗产清单。
评分坦白讲,我以前总觉得纽约的美食场景过于饱和,新店层出不穷,让人眼花缭乱,根本无从下手。这本集子就像是给我提供了一个精准的“导航仪”,它过滤掉了那些喧嚣和浮躁,只留下了真正具有“传承价值”的美味坐标。最让我惊喜的是,她对那些非主流族裔美食的推崇。我们都知道曼哈顿的米其林光环很耀眼,但Mimi Sheraton 显然更愿意把聚光灯打在皇后区或者布鲁克林那些小小的、由移民家庭经营的餐馆上。她对于不同地域风味的理解非常深刻,绝不是浮光掠影的尝试,而是深入到食材的来源和烹饪技法的精髓。我按照她的指引去了一家看起来毫不起眼的中东烤肉店,那味道,瞬间就把我带回了遥远的异域,那种纯粹和正宗,是任何高档餐厅都无法比拟的。这本书,是献给真正懂得“风味原产地”的食客的宝典。
评分这本书的排版和选图(如果附带的话)体现了一种克制而高级的美感,完全没有当代美食书籍常见的花哨和过度饱和的色彩。它选择用最简洁的方式,将焦点集中在食物本身的力量上。而且,作者的推荐标准非常清晰:持久性、一致性和无可替代性。她不会轻易推荐那些昙花一现的潮流。如果你是一个追求“一劳永逸”的美食地图的读者,那么这本书就是你书架上最值得信赖的那一本。它帮助我建立了一套属于自己的“美食信任体系”,我不再需要花费大量时间在不确定的社交媒体上搜寻,只要打开Mimi Sheraton 的指南,就知道哪里有真正的“硬通货”味道。它提供的是一种基于时间考验的信心,这种信心在美食界,比任何米其林星级都来得更实在、更令人安心。
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