CONTENTS

Volume One

Introduction
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka

EAST ASIA

1. Bean There: Toward a Soy-Based History of Northeast Asia
David Wolff

2. A Short History of MSG: Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures
Jordan Sand

3. Transnationalism, Localization, and Fast Foods in East Asia
James L. Watson

4. Eating the West and Beating the Rest: Culinary Occidentalism and Urban Soft Power in Asia’s
Global Food Cities
James Farrer

KOREA

5. Eating Meat, Seeking Modernity: Food and Imperialism in Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth
Century Japan
Ayu Majima

6. The Soy Sauce Industry in Korea: Scrutinising the Legacy of Japanese Colonialism
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka

7. Colonial Modernity and the Social History of Chemical Seasoning in Korea
Jung Keun-Sik

8. Contested Terrain of Imagination: Chinese Food in Korea
Kim Kwang-ok

9. McDonalds in Seoul: Food Choices, Identity, and Nationalism
Sangmee Bak

10. Producing New Consumption: Food
Laura C. Nelson

11. Creating the Korean Housewife
Dennis Hart

12. Cooking American, Eating Korean
Ji-Yeon Yuh

13. Dining Elegance and Authenticity: Archaeology of Royal Court Cuisine in Korea
Okpyo Moon

14. Exoticizing the Familiar, Domesticating the Foreign: Ethnic Food Restaurants in Korea
Sangmee Bak
15. Estimating Rice, Agriculture, Global Trade and National Food Culture in South Korea
Michael Reinschmidt

16. Real Life
Helen-Louise Hunter

17. Consumer Goods and Services: Food
Helen-Louise Hunter

18. The Kimchi “Wars” in Globalizing East Asia: Consuming Class, Gender, Health
Kyung-Koo Han


Volume Two

CHINA

19. Thinking about Food in Chinese History
Mark Swislocki

20. Buddhist Vegetarianism in China
John Kieschnick

21. Milk for Health, Milk for Profit: Shanghai’s Chinese Dairy Industry under Japanese Occupation
Susan Glosser

22. Communal Dining and the Chinese Famine of 1958–1961
Gene Hsin Chang and Guanzhong James Wen

23. The Rice Bowl and the Family
Elisabeth Croll

24. ‘For Eating, It’s Guangzhou’: Regional Culinary Traditions and Chinese Socialism
Jacob A. Klein

25. Redefining Cantonese Cuisine in Post-Mao Guangzhou
Jacob A. Klein

26. Of Hamburger and Social Space: Consuming McDonald’s in Beijing
Yunxiang Yan

27. Food and Family Relations: The Generation Gap at the Table
Guo Yuhua

28. Convenient-involvement Foods and Production of the Family Meal in South China
Siumi Maria Tam

29. A Taste of the Past: Historically Themed Restaurants and Social Memory in Singapore
Wong Hong Suen

30. Cantonese Cuisine (Yue-cai) in Taiwan and Taiwanese Cuisine (Tai-cai) in Hong Kong
David Y.H. Wu

31. Devouring the Duck
Andrew Coe
32. Food and Otherness. Chinese Restaurants in West European Cities in the 20th Century
Lars Amenda


Volume Three

JAPAN

33. War, Empire and the Making of Japanese National Cuisine
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka

34. Need, Greed, and Protest in Japan’s Black Market, 1938–1949
Owen Griffiths

35. Eating the World: Restaurant Culture in Early Twentieth Century Japan
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka

36. Savor Slowly: “Ekiben”—The Fast Food of High-Speed Japan
Paul Noguchi

37. Fast Food and Intergenerational Commensality in Japan: New Styles and Old Patterns
John W. Traphagen and L. Keith Brown

38. Constructing Sushi: Food Culture, Trade, and Commodification of a Japanese Market
Theodore C. Bestor

39. Kaiten-zushi and Konbini: Japanese Food Culture in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction
Theodore C. Bestor

40. Selling Mother’s Love?: Mail Order Village Food in Japan
John Knight

41. Food Action Nippon and Slow Food Japan: The Role of Two Citizen Movements in the
Rediscovery of Local Foodways
Stephanie Assmann

42. The Housewife’s Laboratory
Jordan Sand

43. Japanese Mothers and Obentōs: The Lunch-box as Ideological State Apparatus
Anne Allison

44. Ladies who Lunch: Young Women and the Domestic Fallacy in Japan
Merry I. White

45. The Overcooked and Underdone: Masculinities in Japanese Food Programming
T. Holden

46. Iron Chef around the World: Japanese Food Television, Soft Power, and Cultural Globalization
Gabriella Lukacs
47. Oishinbo’s Adventures in Eating Food, Communication, and Culture in Japanese Comics
Lorie Brau

48. There’s Something Fishy about that Sushi: How Japan Interprets the Global Sushi Boom
Rumi Sakamoto and Matthew Allen

Index
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