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Lost Coast, The 在线电子书 pdf 下载 txt下载 epub 下载 mobi 下载 2024

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Kampion, Drew/ Peterson, Jeff (ILT) 作者

译者

2007-12 出版日期

224 页数

$ 20.28 价格

丛书系列

9781423603856 图书编码

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发表于2024-09-21

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Lost Coast, The 在线电子书 epub 下载 mobi 下载 pdf 下载 txt 下载 2024

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Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school.

Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.

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