Lost Coast, The 在線電子書 圖書標籤:
發表於2025-01-11
Lost Coast, The 在線電子書 pdf 下載 txt下載 epub 下載 mobi 下載 2025
Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school.
Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
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Lost Coast, The 在線電子書 pdf 下載 txt下載 epub 下載 mobi 下載 2025