"Extraordinary," "poetic," and "inspired" are only a few words that have been used to describe the food at Chez Panisse. Since the first meal served there in 1971, Alice Waters's Berkeley, California, restaurant has revolutionized American cooking, earning its place among the truly great restaurants of the world. Renowned for the brilliant innovations of its ever-changing menu, Chez Panisse has also come to represent a culinary philosophy inspired by nature -- dedicated to the common interest of environment and consumer in the use of gloriously fresh organic ingredients.
In Chez Panisse Cooking, chef Paul Bertolli -- one of the most talented chefs ever to work with Alice Waters -- presents the Chez Panisse kitchen's explorations and reexaminations of earlier triumphs. Expanding upon -- and sometimes simplifying -- the concepts that have made Chez Panisse legendary, Bertolli provides reflections, recipes, and menus that lead the cook to a critical and intuitive understanding of food itself, of its purest organic sources and most sublime uses. Perhaps best described by Richard Olney, "Paul Bertolli's cuisine is what 'health food' should be and never is: a celebration of purity. The food is imaginative but never complicated; it is art."
Enhanced by Gail Skoff's breathtaking hand-colored photographs, Paul Bertolli's recipes remind us of the simple and passionate joys in cooking and of the inspiration to be drawn from each season's freshest foods: glistening local salmon creates a wildly colorful springtime carpaccio or is grilled later in the season with tomatoes and basil vinaigrette; autumn's fresh white truffles are sliced into an extraordinarily textured salad of pastel hues with fennel, mushrooms, and Parmesan cheese; figs left on the tree until they grow heavy and sweet appear in a fall fruit salad with warm goat cheese and herb toast. Season by season, Chez Panisse Cooking will captivate the senses and imagination of the cook with such entrancing recipes as Sugar Snap Peas with Brown Butter and Sage; Buckwheat Cakes with Smoked Salmon, Creme Fraiche, and Capers; Grilled Fish Wrapped in Fig Leaves with Red Wine Sauce; Lamb Salad with Garden Lettuces, Straw Potatoes, and Garlic Sauce; Marinated Veal Chops Grilled over an Oak Fire; or Seckel Pears Poached in Red Wine with Burnt Caramel. Here, some of the restaurant's most remarkable recent menus for special occasions are recreated, from a White Truffle Dinner to the Chez Panisse Tenth Annual Garlic Festival, to a supper for poet Vikram Seth that began. with "The Season's song, a summer ballad/Tomatoes, basil, flowers, beans/In unison dance, Lobster Salad..."
Many of these recipes reflect Paul Bertolli's love of northern Italian food; for other dishes, the inspiration is French; in all, there is a keen awareness of the abundance of uncompromisingly pure, seasonal ingredients to be found in America.
Above all, the Chez Panisse recipes are meant to inspire the cook to create his or her own version; to awaken the senses to the nuances of taste, texture, and color in cooking; to "discover the ecstatic moments when the intuition, skill, and accumulated experience of the cook merge with the taste and composition of the food." Since its original publication in 1988, this classic cookbook has proved to be indispensable to the shelf of every serious cook and every serious cookbook reader.
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这本书的装帧设计,说实话,初拿到手时,还真让我有些许犹豫。封面采用了那种略带粗粝感的哑光纸张,颜色是深沉的墨绿色,边缘处理得非常简洁,没有太多花哨的装饰。这让我联想到了那种经典的、有些年代感的专业工具书,而非我们通常期待的那种色彩鲜艳、能让人食指大动的食谱。内页的纸张质量倒是出乎意料地好,厚实且不易洇墨,即便是用油性笔做标记也不会透到下一页。排版上,它走的是极简主义路线,大片的留白使得菜谱的文字信息显得格外清晰,不过,这同时也带来了一个小小的阅读障碍:图片太少了。我明白,对于这种级别的烹饪圣经来说,文字的精准描述才是王道,但对于一个习惯了视觉辅助的现代读者而言,缺少了成品图的直观引导,在初期理解某些复杂的技法时,确实需要花费更多的心思去想象。特别是那些对火候、质地要求极为苛刻的步骤,如果没有一张“正确”的成品参照物,难免让人心里没底。不过,当我翻阅到后面关于食材处理和基础酱汁的部分时,这种简洁的风格又显得无比专业和可靠,仿佛它不是在教你“怎么做一道菜”,而是在传授一种烹饪的哲学和严谨的态度。这种克制的设计语言,虽然不符合当下的潮流审美,却成功地营造了一种庄重感,让人感觉手中捧着的,是一部值得反复研读的烹饪百科全书,而不是快餐式的潮流指南。
评分与其他强调“快速”、“便捷”、“零失败”的现代烹饪书籍相比,这本书展现出一种近乎固执的传统主义倾向。我第一次尝试其中的一道基础面团配方时,就被它的“苛刻”程度所震慑。它没有采用任何现代化的简化步骤,比如使用厨师机或预拌粉。所有的揉面、醒发时间都以小时乃至半日来计算,并且对于环境湿度、面粉批次都有细致的、近乎偏执的区分。当我按照指示笨拙地完成第一个步骤时,那种挫败感是真实存在的,因为结果离我脑海中想象的完美状态相去甚远。这让我深刻意识到,这本书不是为那些追求即时满足的读者准备的。它要求你尊重原材料的自然规律,承认时间在烹饪中的不可替代性。更让我印象深刻的是,对于一些非常基础的配料,比如高汤的熬制,作者给出了至少三种截然不同的方法,每一种都详细解释了它们在最终风味光谱中所占据的位置。这种深度挖掘使得你不得不反思自己过去对“基础”的理解。它强迫你放慢脚步,去理解每一滴液体、每一粒盐背后的科学与艺术,这是一种反消费主义的烹饪宣言,挑战了当下“效率至上”的社会价值观。
评分我特别欣赏作者在处理“食材采购与季节性”议题上的态度,这部分内容几乎可以被单独拿出来作为一份生活哲学的宣言。书中几乎没有推荐任何在非当季或远距离运输的食材,并且对于本地、小规模农场出产的原料给予了近乎宗教般的推崇。它没有提供任何可以替代那些应季蔬菜的“应急方案”,而是坚定地要求读者:如果现在没有最好的西红柿,那就不要做这道菜。这种对食材纯粹性的坚持,在今天这个全球化供应链的时代,显得格外清醒且富有挑战性。书中详细记载了某些特定品种的马铃薯在不同土壤中生长的细微差别,以及这些差别如何影响到最终的口感。这种对“来源”的极致关注,让人不由得反思我们日常饮食的来源和意义。它引导读者跳出“超市货架”的思维定式,重新建立与土地和季节的联系。对于我个人而言,阅读这部分内容的过程,与其说是学习烹饪,不如说是一次关于可持续生活方式的深刻反思。它教会我的最重要的一课,也许是:最好的调味料,永远是新鲜、当季、被尊重的原材料本身。
评分这本书的叙事节奏,简直像是在品尝一顿精心安排的法式套餐,每道菜的上桌时间、口味转换都拿捏得恰到好处,让人欲罢不能却又不敢太快吞咽。它不像某些畅销书那样,上来就用一堆耸人听闻的标题或者快速致富的秘诀来吸引你,而是非常缓慢、内敛地铺陈开来。开篇部分,作者花了大量的篇幅去探讨“为什么”——为什么选择这种刀具,为什么需要那样一个厨房的工作台布局,甚至是对窗外自然光线的考量都写得一丝不苟。这种对背景环境的强调,初看之下,甚至让人怀疑自己买的到底是食谱还是室内设计指南。但正是这种铺陈,构建了一种沉浸式的体验。你不是在照着清单做菜,而是在进入一个由作者精心设计的烹饪情境之中。当你真正开始阅读具体的菜谱时,会发现那些步骤的描述并非线性的,而是充满了跳跃性的思考。比如,在写到烤制时,作者可能会突然插入一段关于使用哪种木材进行熏烤的哲学思考,然后又迅速拉回到对烤箱温度微调的精确要求上。这种结构上的松散与内容上的极度严谨形成了奇妙的张力,要求读者必须全神贯注,否则很容易跟不上作者的思路。它考验的不仅是你的动手能力,更是你的专注力和对烹饪整体流程的宏观把握能力。读完一章,往往需要停下来,合上书,默默在脑海中走一遍整个流程,才能真正吸收其精髓。
评分这本书在语言风格上,呈现出一种令人着迷的、夹杂着诗意与技术手册特质的混合体。它的描述充满了感官上的暗示,但这些暗示又都建立在坚实的科学基础上。例如,当描述煎牛排时,它不会简单地说“煎至金黄”,而是会用“当油脂开始发出轻微的、即将烟雾升腾的低语时,是翻面的最佳时机”这样的语句。这种比喻性的表达,极大地激发了读者的想象力,仿佛能提前预知到厨房里的声音和气味。然而,紧接着这种浪漫的描述之后,作者会立刻抛出一个精确到度的技术指标,比如“此时核心温度应为52摄氏度,使用红外测温仪读取为宜”。这种在浪漫与严谨之间的快速切换,使得阅读体验如同走钢丝般刺激。它要求读者既要有艺术家的敏感,又要有工程师的精确。我发现,当我学会用这种“双重视角”去解读菜谱时,我的烹饪效果有了显著的提升。这本书似乎在潜移默化中,训练读者的不仅仅是技巧,更是描述世界和理解过程的方法论。它更像是一部关于如何观察和感知食物的导览手册,而不是一本简单的菜谱集。
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